The London Grill: Lev Parikian

We challenge our contributors to reply to ten devilishly probing questions about their London and we don’t take “Sorry Gov” for an answer. Everyone sitting in the hot seat they will face the same questions ranging from their favourite way to spend a day out in the capital to their most hated building on London’s skyline to find out what Londoners think about their city. The questions are the same but the answers vary wildly.

Lev Parikian is a writer, birdwatcher and conductor. He is the author of Into the Tangled Bank, longlisted for the Wainwright Prize, Light Rains Sometimes Fall, Why Do Birds Suddenly Disappear? and most recently Taking Flight – The Evolutionary Story of Life on the Wing. He lives in South London with his family, who are getting used to his increasing enthusiasm for nature. As a birdwatcher, his most prized sightings are a golden oriole in the Alpujarras and a black redstart at Dungeness Power Station

What’s your secret London tip?

Look up! So many buildings are more interesting above the ground floor. And as an avid birdwatcher, I’m always on the lookout for interesting things, whether it’s a peregrine perched on my local church tower in West Norwood or a flock of starlings swirling around above Trafalgar Square (albeit in far smaller numbers than was common in the 1970s when flocks ran to tens of thousands of birds).

One of the joys of London is its abundance of green spaces in a thriving metropolis. Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, Regent’s Park, St. James’s Park and much much more. And birds even find a toehold where the man-made environment predominates. I once heard a black redstart – a rare bird which established a breeding foothold in the ruins of post-war London – singing as I came out of Waterstones on Piccadilly. The song was clearly audible over the rumble of traffic, so I looked up just in time to see it fly away from its perch on the roof of the Hotel Le Meridien.

What’s your secret London place?

Are there any secrets any more? We visited Venice last year, and before we went I googled ‘secret Venice’ – the bookshop ‘Acqua Alta’ turned up on every single one of the first ten sites that came up, so I think it’s safe to say the secret’s out. I feel sure the same thing applies to London. And whenever people share their own special secret places in London I feel horribly out of touch – I definitely don’t make the most of living in this great city.

That said, I do enjoy walking around my local cemetery in West Norwood. It’s one of the ‘Magnificent Seven’, and a place of peace and repose, as well as a trove of interesting graves. Mrs Beeton is buried there, as well as Hiram Maxim (inventor of the automatic machine gun), and C. W. Alcock, who created the F.A. Cup and organised the first Test match (at The Oval, London’s finest cricket ground).

What’s your biggest gripe about London?

Oh, I don’t know. People disregarding the needs of others, I suppose – so easy to do in a big city.

What’s your favourite building?

I’m extremely fond of my local art gallery, Dulwich Picture Gallery – although I usually forget there’s a special exhibition on until it’s too late. On a larger scale, I can always while away a happy hour or two at the Natural History Museum, whether exploring the wonders inside or examining the many imaginative features of the exterior.

What’s your most hated building?

The skyline of the City has been transformed in the last few decades, hasn’t it? And I must say I’m far from a fan of some of the more extravagant and visible skyscrapers.

What’s the best view in London?

I’m biased because it’s a five-minute walk from my house, but the view across London from Norwood Park is hard to beat. There it all is, laid out in front of you, and on a clear day you can see to Ally Pally and beyond.

What’s your personal London landmark?

Maybe not a landmark, but whenever I’m at Lord’s or The Oval I look out for the pied wagtails – the chirpiest, jauntiest little birds – that hang around on the outfield of both establishments.

What’s London’s best film, book or documentary?

Not ‘about’ London so much, but The Long Dark Teatime of the Soul by Douglas Adams, written when St Pancras station was still awaiting redevelopment, reimagines that extraordinary building quite wonderfully.

What’s your favourite restaurant?

For about 20 years now our go-to restaurant for celebrations and family occasions has been Chez Bruce in Wandsworth. We’ve never had a meal there that wasn’t at the very least excellent. The service is great, too – attentive without being obtrusive – and then there’s the legendary cheese board. It’s quite an achievement to keep such consistently high standards for so long.

How would you spend your ideal day off in London?

Breakfast at Brown and Green at Gipsy Hill station on my way to a morning’s birding at the London Wetland Centre in Barnes. Lunch at Brindisa in South Kensington, then an hour at the Natural History Museum and pop into John Sandoe Books for a browse. Dinner at Chez Bruce. And let’s say that my son (a jazz pianist) happens to be gigging nearby – that would top the whole thing off admirably.

London in Quotations: Charles Dickens

Fog everywhere. Fog up the river, where it flows among green aits and meadows; fog down the river, where it rolls defiled among the tiers of shipping and the waterside pollutions of a great (and dirty) city. Fog in the eyes and throats of ancient Greenwich pensioners, wheezing by the firesides of their wards; . . . And hard by Temple Bar, in Lincoln’s Inn Hall, at the very heart of the fog, sits the Lord High Chancellor in his High Court of Chancery.

Charles Dickens (1812-1870), Bleak House

London Trivia: River Tragedy

On 3 September 1878 at about 7.40 pm the largest loss of life on the Thames occurred when the paddle steamer Princess Alice with over 800 day-trippers, mostly women and children, returning from an excursion to Margate was rammed by the collier Bywell Castle many were thrown into the Thames one-hour after the twice-daily release of 75 million gallons of raw sewage from sewer outfalls at Barking and Crossness had occurred, over 650 died.

On 3 September 1939 the first World War II air raid sirens were heard over London just 7 minutes after Britain had declared war on Germany

In 19th-century London, fake ice cream was made from mashed turnip, there is no record of any convictions for its sale

When the statue of Eros, Piccadilly Circus, was put back up after World War II it was erected the wrong way, originally it faced Shaftesbury Avenue

There were claims the first baby born on the Underground was called Thelma Ursula Beatrice Eleanor (so that her initials would have read TUBE) but this story later proved false – her name was Marie Cordery

On 3 September each year members of the Cromwell Association hold a service in front of Oliver Cromwell’s statue outside Parliament

The only true home shared by all four Beatles was a flat at 57 Green Street near Hyde Park, where they lived in the autumn of 1963

In the Mitre Tavern stands the trunk of a cherry tree that once marked the boundary between the Ely Palace estate and London beyond

Pathé News didn’t have rights to 1923 Cup Final – so smuggled camera into Wembley disguised as a large wooden hammer (West Ham one of teams)

The longest distance between stations is on the Metropolitan line from Chesham to Chalfont & Latimer: a total of 3.89 miles

Rotherhithe once known for its shipbuilding industry, in 1620 the Pilgrim Fathers set sail on the Mayflower on the first leg to New England

In the 19th century those said to have enjoyed a Spitalfield’s Breakfast had actually eaten nothing as Spitalfields was an area of poverty

CabbieBlog-cab.gifTrivial Matter: London in 140 characters is taken from the daily Twitter feed @cabbieblog.
A guide to the symbols used here and source material can be found on the Trivial Matter page.

Previously Posted: Homeless not hopeless

For those new to CabbieBlog or readers who are slightly forgetful, on Saturdays I’m republishing posts, many going back over a decade. Some will still be very relevant while others have become dated over time. Just think of this post as your weekend paper supplement.

Homeless not hopeless (10.08.2010)

While driving through Hackney recently I came across this group of social deprivation warriors, and like or loath them if properties weren’t left empty by landlords or disgracefully unoccupied by local councils, squatters (who often have not broken any laws) would not exist.

On closer inspection I was surprised to find this once elegant early Victorian detached house had a plaque attached to its gatepost “The Elizabeth Fry Refuge 1849-1913”. The irony of squatters living in Elizabeth Fry’s Refuge has obviously escaped Hackney Council’s attention.

Born in Norwich on 21st May 1780 Elizabeth was the daughter of John Gurney a partner in the famous Gurney Bank, her mother was a member of the Barclay banking family and a devout Quaker, helping the poor of the district every day. As a young woman her friend was Amelia Alderson whose father was a member of the Corresponding Society Group advocating universal suffrage and annual parliaments.

In July 1799 she was introduced to a fellow Quaker, Joseph Fry a successful merchant’s son. They married the following year move to Plashet (now East Ham in London) and she bore him eight children.

In 1813 a friend of the Fry family, Stephen Grellet, visited Newgate Prison. Grellet was deeply shocked by what he saw but was informed that the conditions in the women’s section were even worse. When Grellet asked to see this part of the prison, he was advised against entering the women’s yard as they were so unruly they would probably do him some physical harm. Grellet insisted and was appalled by the suffering that he saw.

When Grellet told Elizabeth about the way women were treated in Newgate, she decided that she must visit the prison. There she discovered 300 women and their children, huddled together in two wards and two cells, the female prisoners slept on the floor without nightclothes or bedding. Although some of the women had been found guilty of crimes, others were still waiting to be tried.

Elizabeth began to visit the women of Newgate Prison, supplying those clothes and establishing a school, and later with other Quakers formed the Association for the Improvement of the Female Prisoners at Newgate. Her brother-in-law published an inquiry into prison discipline and upon being elected as an Member of Parliament, he addressed Parliament and pointed out that there were 107,000 people in British prisons, greater than all the other prisoners in Europe put together – it is also a greater number than in today’s prisons.

Elizabeth gave evidence to a House of Commons Committee, describing how Newgate held 30 prisoners to a room each prisoner had a space of 6 feet by 2 feet, with hardened offenders sharing rooms with first time offences. At a time when over 200 offences were capital offences she declared “capital punishment was evil and produce evil results”.

When Sir Robert Peel became Home Secretary he introduced a series of reforms directed at introducing more humane treatment of prisoners as a result of pressure from Elizabeth.

Elizabeth also became concerned about the quality of nursing staff. In 1840 she started a training school for nurses in Guy’s Hospital and Florence Nightingale wrote to Fry to explain how she had been influenced by her views on the training of nurses. Later, when Nightingale went to the Crimean War, she took a group of Fry nurses with her to look after the sick and wounded soldiers.

It is claimed that Queen Victoria, who was forty years younger than Elizabeth Fry, might have modelled herself on this woman who successfully combined the roles of mother and public figure.

Although prison reform was her main concern she also campaigned for the homeless in London. So when you have a £5 note in your hand turn it over, there you will find Elizabeth Fry, Quaker, prison reformer, campaigner for universal suffrage and champion of the poor and homeless, it’s just a pity that Hackney Council don’t try their best to follow her lead.

Test Your Knowledge: September 2023

Who lives here? This month’s quiz is about which famous people live or once lived at the following London addresses. As before the correct answer will turn green when it’s clicked upon and expanded to give more information. The incorrect answers will turn red giving the correct explanation.

1. 48 Doughty Street?
Virginia Woolfe
WRONG This typical Georgian terraced house near King’s Cross was Charles Dickens’s home from 25 March 1837 (a year after his marriage) to December 1839.
Charles Dickens
CORRECT This typical Georgian terraced house near King’s Cross was Charles Dickens’s home from 25 March 1837 (a year after his marriage) to December 1839.
Mary Shelley
WRONG This typical Georgian terraced house near King’s Cross was Charles Dickens’s home from 25 March 1837 (a year after his marriage) to December 1839.
2. 87 Hackford Road?
William Hogarth
WRONG Van Gogh lodged briefly at the home of Ursula Loyer and her daughter Eugenie at 87 Hackford Road, Stockwell from August 1873 while working at the art dealership Goupil & Co. He sketched the 1824-built, three-storey Georgian terrace opposite Durand School, using pencil with chalk highlights.
Vincent van Gogh
CORRECT Van Gogh lodged briefly at the home of Ursula Loyer and her daughter Eugenie at 87 Hackford Road, Stockwell from August 1873 while working at the art dealership Goupil & Co. He sketched the 1824-built, three-storey Georgian terrace opposite Durand School, using pencil with chalk highlights.
J.M.W. Turner
WRONG Van Gogh lodged briefly at the home of Ursula Loyer and her daughter Eugenie at 87 Hackford Road, Stockwell from August 1873 while working at the art dealership Goupil & Co. He sketched the 1824-built, three-storey Georgian terrace opposite Durand School, using pencil with chalk highlights.
3. 36 Craven Street?
Benjamin Franklin
CORRECT This terraced Georgian house close to Trafalgar Square is the last-standing former residence of Benjamin Franklin, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States. The house dates from 1730, and Franklin lived and worked there for sixteen years.
Tim Berners-Lee
WRONG This terraced Georgian house close to Trafalgar Square is the last-standing former residence of Benjamin Franklin, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States. The house dates from 1730, and Franklin lived and worked there for sixteen years.
David Attenborough
WRONG This terraced Georgian house close to Trafalgar Square is the last-standing former residence of Benjamin Franklin, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States. The house dates from 1730, and Franklin lived and worked there for sixteen years.
4. 32 Windsor Gardens?
Paddington Bear
CORRECT The Brown’s fictional house in Windsor Gardens is actually Chalcot Crescent in Primrose Hill.
Uncle Bulgaria
WRONG The Brown’s fictional house in Windsor Gardens is actually Chalcot Crescent in Primrose Hill.
Bungle
WRONG The Brown’s fictional house in Windsor Gardens is actually Chalcot Crescent in Primrose Hill.
5. 31 Melbury Road?
Robbie Williams
CORRECT Built-in 1875, it was designed by architect Richard Norman Shaw. Once the home of director Michael Winner, it was purchased in 2013 by Robbie Williams. The house currently has 47 rooms and over 2,000 light bulbs – the house was originally intended for artists’ studios, needing to use ample light and skylights for the entrance of natural light.
Gary Oldman
WRONG Built-in 1875, it was designed by architect Richard Norman Shaw. Once the home of director Michael Winner, it was purchased in 2013 by Robbie Williams. The house currently has 47 rooms and over 2,000 light bulbs – the house was originally intended for artists’ studios, needing to use ample light and skylights for the entrance of natural light.
Marc Bolan
WRONG Built-in 1875, it was designed by architect Richard Norman Shaw. Once the home of director Michael Winner, it was purchased in 2013 by Robbie Williams. The house currently has 47 rooms and over 2,000 light bulbs – the house was originally intended for artists’ studios, needing to use ample light and skylights for the entrance of natural light.
6. 30 Camden Square?
Adele
WRONG The late, extremely talented singer resided at 30 Camden Square, the spot where she died of alcohol poisoning. The house has since become a shrine for fans, who want to pay respects.
Amy Winehouse
CORRECT The late, extremely talented singer resided at 30 Camden Square, the spot where she died of alcohol poisoning. The house has since become a shrine for fans, who want to pay respects.
Dua Lipa
WRONG The late, extremely talented singer resided at 30 Camden Square, the spot where she died of alcohol poisoning. The house has since become a shrine for fans, who want to pay respects.
7. 7 Cavendish Avenue?
David Bowie
WRONG Hidden behind high wooden doors, this house in St John Wood is nestled among mainly large mansions, and massive old trees and the streets are very quiet. A few other celebs that call St John Wood home are actor Ewan McGregor and pop star Lily Allen.
Gary Barlow
WRONG Hidden behind high wooden doors, this house in St John Wood is nestled among mainly large mansions, and massive old trees and the streets are very quiet. A few other celebs that call St John Wood home are actor Ewan McGregor and pop star Lily Allen.
Sir Paul McCartney
CORRECT Hidden behind high wooden doors, this house in St John Wood is nestled among mainly large mansions, and massive old trees and the streets are very quiet. A few other celebs that call St John Wood home are actor Ewan McGregor and pop star Lily Allen.
8. 23 Holland Park?
Bobby Moore
WRONG Did the Beckhams have to pay more to get David Beckham’s jersey number 23 as their home address rest assured they could afford it.
Lennox Lewis
WRONG Did the Beckhams have to pay more to get David Beckham’s jersey number 23 as their home address rest assured they could afford it.
David Beckham
CORRECT Did the Beckhams have to pay more to get David Beckham’s jersey number 23 as their home address rest assured they could afford it.
9. 4 Queensdale Place?
Elton John
CORRECT Elton has owned this modest house since 1992. He also has a much grander home in Windsor.
Keith Moon
WRONG Elton has owned this modest house since 1992. He also has a much grander home in Windsor.
Elvis Costello
WRONG Elton has owned this modest house since 1992. He also has a much grander home in Windsor.
10. 28 Logan Place?
John Lydon
WRONG Over 20 years after Mercury died of AIDS fans still come to his house Garden Lodge to pay tribute by leaving flowers and personal letters on the perimeter wall.
Freddie Mercury
CORRECT Over 20 years after Mercury died of AIDS fans still come to his house Garden Lodge to pay tribute by leaving flowers and personal letters on the perimeter wall.
Ian Dury
WRONG Over 20 years after Mercury died of AIDS fans still come to his house Garden Lodge to pay tribute by leaving flowers and personal letters on the perimeter wall.