Ancient Inns of the Borough High Street–continued

This is the second part of a Guest Post about the inns on Borough High Street, specially written for CabbieBlog by Adrian Prockter

Adrian has been lecturing on the subject of Inner London for many years, his specialist knowledge covers the City of London, the City of Westminster and the River Thames His website Know Your London contains a wealth of information about the capital.

As we saw in the first part of the Ancient Inns of the Borough High Street, the days of coaching inns lasted into the 1800s when they died ‘a sudden death’ with the coming of railway trains, by the 1880s they had all been pulled down. However, if you know what to look for, there are clues still to be found on the east side of Borough High Street for no less than twelve of those inns. Here is a brief outline of what to look out for.

Kentish-Buildings

Kentish Buildings

[K]entish Buildings was once the entrance yard to the old Christopher Inn and the present pub contains some Georgian walls from that original building. A stroll along the alleyway will reveal that the exterior side of the pub is also Georgian. This part of the building is partly in use as cheap accommodation for student backpackers. Notice also the large granite ‘stones’ on the ground, beside the alleyway, which prevented the coach wheels hitting the walls and damaging them.

Spur-Inn

Spur Inn

[T]his long narrow yard was in its original condition until about 2010. The old archway of the Spur Inn also remained from earlier times beside Borough High Street but it was in a very poor state. A new development was planned – with a Premier Inn and additional buildings related to the Guy’s Hospital campus – and they were opened in March 2017. Several structures on the site were removed during redevelopment. Timbers from the old side of the gateway have been mounted on a modern approach wall. The original large stone cart tracks have been re-set into the new pedestrian walkway.

Nag's-Head-Inn

Nag’s Head Inn

[T]he evidence for this inn remains in the form of large stone cart tracks. The wheels of the coaches would have clattered over the entrance stones at one time. The entrance has been redeveloped and only opened in March 2017. At one time the inn would have extended back from Borough High Street much further than the modern pathway would suggest.

Axe-&-Bottle-Inn

Axe & Bottle Inn

[T]his ancient inn was swept away when Newcomen Street was laid out across most of its site. At the south side of that street is a large yard which was once part of the inn. On the side of Newcomen Street is a modern sign of ‘an axe and a bottle’.

Mermaid-Court

Mermaid Court

[M]ermaid Court is actually a narrow street, leading off Borough High Street. The rather uninteresting street was once the entrance yard of the old Mermaid Inn. It’s not much to look at but at least it is a reminder of another ancient inn.

Chapel-Court

Chapel Court

[C]hapel Court is so-called because, at a later time, a chapel stood beside the alleyway The present pub was once the site of the pub for the ‘Blue Maid Inn’. A large timber-framed building is to be seen in Chapel Court – on the left as you walk into the alleyway. The timbers came from a structure that was demolished in Essex and they were re-erected on the present site during the 1980s. The building had been proposed as a restaurant but that was short-lived and it is now offices. However, the building adds a little realism to keep alive the days of the Southwark inns.

If you walk any further down Borough High Street you will pass John Harvard Library and then arrive at the church of St George the Martyr – almost opposite Borough Underground Station. So much could be written about the 12 inns but this article will give you an introduction to a fascinating aspect of this ancient thoroughfare and, hopefully, start you on a search for further evidence for these famous inns of Southwark.

Stagecoach image by Firkin (CC0 1.0), all other images © Adrian Prockter

CabbieBlog-cabThis is not a sponsored post. The author has written this Guest Post for CabbieBlog.
Other articles can be found on Adrian Prockter’s Know Your London.
All links here conform with guidelines set out in Write a Post.

Ancient Inns of the Borough High Street

This is the first of a two-part Guest Post about the inns to be found on Borough High Street, specially written for CabbieBlog by Adrian Prockter.

Adrian has been lecturing on the subject of Inner London for many years, his specialist knowledge covers the City of London, the City of Westminster and the River Thames His website Know Your London contains a wealth of information about the capital.

[B]orough High Street is a busy street – busy with never-ending traffic and busy with endless pedestrians pounding the narrow pavements. Everything is rushing about and, as you join the throng, you are in danger of being swept along as well. This is a pity because Borough High Street needs to be studied carefully. It can be considered one of London’s oldest streets. It was laid out by the Romans – as part the route from London Bridge via Shooter’s Hill and Dartford to Canterbury and Dover. With the Norman invasion, England had many connections with France and those who came from the Continent would also have landed at Dover and travelled to London via the same road.

In medieval times many travellers passed through Southwark – on their way to or from the Shrine of Thomas a Becket, at Canterbury. Pilgrimages to Canterbury started after the slaying of Becket in 1170. By the 13th century, one of the main ‘industries’ of Southwark was to provide for pilgrims in the form of inns where they could stay. The entire eastern side of Borough High Street and much of the western side as well were both taken up with large inns. Pilgrims could sleep in them and also find stabling for their horses. In total there may have been as many as 40 or 50 inns.

By the 17th century, the idea of going on a pilgrimage had rather faded. However, stage coaches were being introduced and, for the first time ever, passengers who were rich enough could access long-distance public transport. The vehicles were called ‘stage coaches’ because the journey was made in ‘stages’. A team of four horses could only trot for about 10-15 miles and then it had to be changed. Inns across England provided stables for changes of horses and accommodation where the passengers could obtain food or even stay overnight. Many inns were referred to coaching inns.

The days of coaching inns lasted into the 1800s when they died ‘a sudden death’ with the coming of railway trains. The first passenger train in London ran in 1836 and within a couple of decades coaching inns had lost most of their customers and therefore closed. By the 1880s they had all been pulled down. However, if you know what to look for, there are clues still to be found on the east side of Borough High Street for no less than twelve of those inns. Here is a brief outline of what to look out for.

King's-Head-Yard

King’s Head Yard

[T]he narrow street, leading off Borough High Street via an arch was once the yard of the Olde King’s Head Inn. Its length – extending to the boundary of Guy’s Hospital – shows how far back the land of the inn went. The pub from the inn remains to this day. Beside the street would have been sleeping accommodation for guests, stables for horses, hay-lofts storing food for horses and also straw for them to sleep on.

White-Hart-Yard

White Hart Yard

[T]his narrow street was the long yard of White Hart Inn. Today it links up with King’s Head Yard, at the eastern end. The view looks out to Borough High Street. An interesting doorway (see in the picture) once led into a room where coachmen logged their journeys after arriving at the inn. The entrance archway might seem rather low but Victorian prints show that it was always this height.

George-Inn

George Inn

[P]art of the original yard still remains. The name was probably once ‘St George and the Dragon’ – a common name in medieval times. The property once extended back from Borough High Street twice the present distance. Just a small number of buildings – which include the pub from the original inn – was saved from demolition at the very last minute in the 19th century and are now owned by the National Trust.

Talbot-Yard

Talbot Yard

[O]riginally the entrance yard for the ancient Tabard Inn mentioned in Geoffrey Chaucer’s ‘Canterbury Tales’, published in 1386, the long, narrow street shows the original length of the inn yard and its other buildings. A ‘tabard’ was a sleeveless garment worn as the outer dress of medieval peasants and clerics. The later name of ’talbot’ was used, which is the name of a type of hunting dog. Nothing from the original inn remains on the site today.

Queen's-Head-Yard

Queen’s Head Yard

[T]his is part of the entrance yard to the ancient Queen’s Head Inn. Its name probably derived from an inn sign bearing a likeness of Queen Elizabeth I. The building was once owned by John Harvard who emigrated from England and became the founder of the well-known Harvard University – in America. The yard once extended back much further than the present one does today. Its existing stone cart tracks remain from the days of the horse and cart and also possibly the ‘coach and four’. The inn was one of the most famous in Southwark.

Three-Tuns-Yard

Three Tuns Yard

[O]nly the name on the entrance arch acts as a reminder of the inn that once stood on the site. The name ‘Three Tuns’ was a common one in early times – a ‘tun’ being an old name for a large beer or wine cask. The ugly, overbearing archway, seen today, is a product of the 1960s or 1970s and is quite out of keeping with the older surrounding buildings.

Stagecoach image by Firkin (CC0 1.0), all other images © Adrian Prockter

CabbieBlog-cabThis is not a sponsored post. The author has written this Guest Post for CabbieBlog.
Other articles can be found on Adrian Prockter’s Know Your London.
All links here conform with guidelines set out in Write a Post.

London Trivia: A good night’s sleep

On 25 June 2005 at 1.30 am a passer by noticed something unusual on the top of a crane erected in Dulwich. The police and fire brigade were called and established the little bundle lying 130ft up in the air was, in fact, a 15-year-old girl who had slept walked from her home. The person who spotted her feared she was about to throw herself off but when a firefighter climbed the crane he found her curled up asleep on top of the concrete counterweight.

On 25 June 1953 John Christie was sentenced to hang for murdering his wife and then hiding her body under the floorboards of their Notting Hill home in London

Smoking was banned on the Underground as a result of the King’s Cross fire in November 1987 which killed 31 people. A discarded match was thought to be the cause of that inferno

There are plaques in London to stars of the Carry On films including Joan Sims in Kensington and Hattie Jacques in Earls Court

On 25 June 1750 William Green, a weaver, accidentally lost his balance at The Monument and fell to his death

During World War II Eastenders would dine on whale meat as it was one ‘meat’ that was in abundance and not rationed the same as beef

On 25 June 1891 Strand Magazine in Burleigh St. published the first Sherlock Holmes short story by Arthur Conan Doyle – A Scandal In Bohemia

It was on Jack Smith’s Berwick Street market stall that the first grapefruit was introduced to London and England in 1890

One of the levels in Tomb Raider 3 is set in the disused Aldwych tube station, featuring scenes of Lara Croft killing rats

It’s proximity to Smithfield Market was a determining factor as to why Farringdon was chosen as the eastern terminus of the first tube line

Edward Johnston designed the typeface for the London Underground in 1916. The font he came up with is still in use today it’s called Johnston Sans

The term Cockney comes from Middle English cockeney, meaning misshapen eggs and was used by country folk to deride those born in the City

CabbieBlog-cab.gifTrivial Matter: London in 140 characters is taken from the daily Twitter feed @cabbieblog.
A guide to the symbols used here and source material can be found on the Trivial Matter page.

Down Your Alley: Turnagain Lane

I thought Turnagain Lane was the perfect metaphor for what’s going on in the Palace of Westminster at the present time.

To reach Turnagain Lane go from Holborn Viaduct walk down the steps onto Farringdon Street. Turnagain Lane is then on the east side.

Until the Fleet River was covered over this was a little lane that ran from Old Bailey down to the river bank.

[T]here is no bridge crossing at this point, it was impossible to proceed any further and the only option was to return to Old Bailey – or as John Stow inscribed:

It turneth down to Turnemill brook,
and from thence back again,
for there is no way over

Turnagain-Lane

Turnagain Lane

In other words, it was a cul-de-sac stopped by the river. In the 13th century, it was known as Wendageyneslane and in the 15th century as Turneagayne Lane. The Lane now is more reminiscent of a triangularly shaped yard with the white glazed brick building of Meridian House on the south side. Turnagain Lane is still a cul-de-sac but now you must ‘wendagain’ to Farringdon Street.

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CabbieBlog-cabMuch of the original source material for Down Your Alley has been derived from Ivor Hoole’s GeoCities website. The site is now defunct and it is believed Ivor is no more. Thankfully much of Ivor’s work has been archived by Ian Visits and Phil Gyford.

Parliamentary peculiars

Tomorrow will see The State Opening of Parliament, and although our political masters have promised it to be the last for two years, the political commentators are predicting it won’t even be the last one this year, as we could have another election in the near future.

The State Opening has many traditions, Black Rod knocking on the door to gain admittance, the speech which is referred to as ‘A Humble Address’ or the ‘Loyal Address’.

[M]any other anomalies are to be found in the Palace of Westminster. A snuff box is situated by the door of the Commons. Smoking has been banned since the 17th century, so a full box if snuff is provided should Members require.

Hooks are provided in the cloakroom so one may hang one’s sword, they were barred from the Chamber.

The mace, which once was a weapon is carried before Black Rod. The last time the ‘weapon’ was used in anger was by Michael Heseltine. On the 27th May 1976, the government was attempting to steer the hotly contested Aircraft and Shipbuilding Industries Bill through the Commons. The vote on an amendment had been tied and was lost on the Speaker’s vote, Heseltine had to be restrained from using the mace presumably upon the Speaker’s head.

The colours of green (Commons) and red (Lords) are denoted on the carpets, benches and Westminster and Lambeth bridges, although no-one quite knows why those colours were chosen.

The expression ‘in the bag’ comes from a rather worn velvet bag, called the Petition Bag, which hangs on the back of the Speaker’s chair. Where, if you believe, shy Members could leave petitions to be considered.

Emily Wilding Davidson (who would subsequently die under the King’s horse at Ascot) hid in a cupboard on census night, so she could give her address as ‘The House of Commons’. The late Tony Benn would show his guests the stationery cupboard.

In a kind of quasi-religious icon worshiping, Members touch the statues of their favourite dead politicians when passing, they say Margaret Thatcher is particularly favoured.

The Commons Chamber can only accommodate 427 for the 650 members, Churchill was reputedly in favour of keeping the seating to a minimum after bomb damage necessitated rebuilding, so he wouldn’t have too much opposition to his speeches.

Two red line along its floor of the Commons Chamber, which are 8-foot apart, just over two sword lengths, just in case Members flout the rule of ‘no swords’ and don’t hang them in the cloakroom.

There is the talk of moving the whole of Queen Elizabeth II Conference Centre while 5-years of maintenance takes place.