The London Grill: Roundel Round We Go

We challenge our contributors to reply to ten devilishly probing questions about their London and we don’t take “Sorry Gov” for an answer. Everyone sitting in the hot seat they will face the same questions ranging from their favourite way to spend a day out in the capital to their most hated building on London’s skyline to find out what Londoners think about their city. The questions are the same but the answers vary wildly.

Roundel Round We Go is a podcast created by two London Underground nerds. In each episode, we draw one of the 272 stations out of a bag, research it, and make a show. Though we love trains, the show goes beyond just the Tube and looks at architecture, local history and how London has been built around the underground network.

What’s your secret London tip?

Emily: In 2018 I rode on every bus in London (they’ve added a few since – I need to catch up), and some take you on remarkable journeys around the city. I love the 210 (Finsbury Park to Brent Cross), 319 (Sloane Square to Streatham Hill), 52 (Willesden to Victoria), 36 (Queen’s Park to New Cross Gate), 139 (Golders Green to Waterloo) and W3 (Finsbury Park to Northumberland Park – great views from Ally Pally). I think I’m showing my north Londoner bias here, but if I’m ever at a loose end in London I’ll always just hop on a bus.

Paul: Despite being a massive enthusiast for public transport, when I’ve got time I love to walk across central London. I’d always visualised London as effectively a series of islands around tube stations, but one day not long after getting a smartphone with maps on for the first time decided to try navigating town on foot. Suddenly I realised not only how close together so much of it is, but also just how quiet and beautiful the many side roads and squares can be only a few dozen metres from even the busiest roads. So my tip is, if you get the chance, don’t hop on the tube or a bus, try wandering through the backstreets of London.

What’s your secret London place?

Emily: Not a specific place per-se, but I absolutely love cycling at night in London, particularly on the quiet side streets. I used to be an usher at the National Theatre, and I’d cycle home at about 10:30 most nights up Hampstead Road and swing off at Mornington Crescent and then cycle up along the railway lines out of Euston. It was such a different world from the business of Camden just a couple of streets away, and it always felt a bit magical.

Paul: South East London Combined Heat and Power – also known as the giant municipal waste incinerator near the Millwall stadium. Not strictly secret given its chimney can be seen for miles, but what is less apparent is that it’s often possible to visit during London’s annual Open House weekend, and is one of the most impressive and exciting buildings to look around. You can see the sci-fi-like control room, open a hatch to stare through a window straight into the flames of the furnace, get almost deafened by the generators, and look over the vast bunker full of waste to watch rubbish lorries empty their loads onto the mounds far below. Best of all, they once even let me have a go operating the crane that moves the waste from the heap into the furnace – it’s like a giant version of the seaside arcade grabber crane games!

What’s your biggest gripe about London?

Emily: Probably a pretty standard one, but the cost of living. I’ve paid way too much of my income to live in mice-infested, falling-down flats in the past – and I’m one of the lucky ones! When I was a teacher, I saw so many families living in poverty, and the level of disparity between people all living in the same city really upsets me.

Paul: I can’t stand the politicisation of transport policy and funding in London. It’s particularly prominent at the moment, but goes back decades, whether that be mayoral vanity projects, imposition of privatisation, starvation of funding… All done for ideological reasons, or even worse political scheming, and totally detached from the genuine needs of the city.

What’s your favourite building?

Emily: The Houses of Parliament – I know that’s the most basic, touristy answer, but my reason is a little more interesting! I used to be a tour guide there for school groups and one of my favourite parts of that job was when we got to do morning inspections of the tour route before the building opened to the public to make sure there weren’t any unforeseen obstacles, and it was always quite magnificent to stand in the middle of Commons or Lords completely on my own and think about all the things that had happened in those rooms. I’d also usually have my headphones on, and so had a history of dancing through the voting lobbies to the great amusement of the security guards.

Paul: 55 Broadway. Until 2019 it was the headquarters of Transport for London, having originally been built as the headquarters for their privately owned predecessor the Underground Group back in 1929. I first visited as a volunteer giving tours of the building for the Transport Museum, and later many times while working for TfL. It is one of those buildings where every visit from my first to my last had a real sense of occasion; entering through teak doors into a marble-clad lobby; climbing the stairs decorated with old enamelled metal tube maps; attending lectures in what was once the chairman’s vast wood-panelled office and holding meetings around what had been the same chairman’s table. The view from the top was quite spectacular too.
At the end of 2019, it was sold to a hotel company, so I’m hoping to be able to visit again in a few years’ time.

What’s your most hated building?

Emily: I have nothing particularly personal against Arsenal fans, but I hate Emirates Stadium. Compared with the beautiful Highbury one (I love walking through the housing complex it is now) and various other recent stadia, I just think it’s not very attractive. Plus, when I lived in Finsbury Park, every time there was a game on, the whole area was massively overcrowded and I could barely get on the tube or a bus. Ironically, however, Arsenal Station is my favourite tube station – I love that it is in the middle of a bunch of terraced houses and it has beautiful platform tiling – so at least something nice came out of massive football overcrowding!

Paul: I absolutely detest St George Wharf in Vauxhall. It’s a giant block of multi-million-pound flats by the Thames which looks absolutely hideous. They form a solid wall of five near-identical buildings, providing no variety or visual interest along their length, blocking all views past them, towering over their surroundings, visible for miles, with a badly-proportioned, ungainly design that combines the excessive size of Soviet-style apartment blocks with the cladding and glazing of a nineties office park.

What’s the best view in London?

Emily: I have a friend who lives in Dawson Heights in East Dulwich – it’s the big, brutalist housing estate by Kate Macintosh you can see really clearly on the Horizon if you’re at the Horniman Gardens. He lives on the north side of the building, and the views from his flat are immaculate. I was once there entirely by coincidence on Bonfire Night, and I saw fireworks go off over all of London – you can see from Wembley to Stratford to and everywhere in between. And the flats are rent-controlled – it’s a very enviable situation! If you ever get a chance to go up there, even to the little park below the flats, I highly recommend it (just don’t be too loud or I’ll hear no end of complaints from said friend).

Paul: Standing on the south end of the platforms at London Bridge station, you can see for over two miles of almost dead straight railway, with up to eleven tracks running in parallel. By daylight, you can see five or more trains running beside each other to and from the station at busy times, like a fantastic synchronised dance that carries tens of thousands of people. At night you can just see the trains’ headlights and tail-lights and above them the rows of signals shining from gantries over the track, controlling this incredibly complex system.

What’s your personal London landmark?

Emily and Paul: I guess for both of us it would be Moorgate Station? It’s where we met in 2020, just before lockdown at a work training event. It was Emily’s birthday and she had made a roundel-shaped cake. We basically haven’t stopped talking since that day.

What’s London’s best film, book or documentary?

Emily: White Teeth by Zadie Smith. I read it when I first moved to London and was living in NW very close to where it was set. Smith is a great storyteller, but I love the intimacy with London geography that her writing has. I haven’t lived in NW for years, but it’s still a place close to my heart.

Paul: Neverwhere by Neil Gaiman – originally a 1996 BBC TV series, then a novel and also a radio drama, telling the story of a man accidentally pulled into a magical underworld version of London. I love how familiar landmarks are reimagined, like the bizarre Earl’s Court complete with jester, and the terrifying Knight’s Bridge which one must risk death to cross.

What’s your favourite restaurant?

Emily: Saki in Crouch End. Vegetarian Sushi is usually pretty lacklustre, but they do this thing called the Rock ‘n’ Roll with sweet potato tempura and avocado that is to die for! I moved out of their delivery range over a year ago and I’ve still not over it – but I still go up there in person when I can and it’s a good excuse to walk up part of the abandoned railway line that is now the Parkland Walk.

Paul: Piccolo Mayfair sandwich bar on Shepherd Street. When I’m doing tours of disused stations for the Transport Museum I like to treat myself to lunch somewhere nice each time, and Piccolo is where I always go when I’m at Down Street. It’s one of those classic deli-greasy spoon-sandwich shop type places, used by a huge variety of the people who live and work in the area. I particularly love their extensive range of delicious toasted paninis.

How would you spend your ideal day off in London?

Emily: Riding buses, and then walking. I’ve walked the Capital Ring, and am about ¾ through the London LOOP, and I love just exploring all the natural spaces that exist within London, particularly whilst listening to podcasts or non-fiction audiobooks. After a long walk, I’d go to the theatre, as I’m a huge theatre fan – ideally to see an exciting new work at somewhere like the Young Vic, Royal Court, or Donmar – but I’m happy in any theatre!

Paul: Working for both TfL and the Transport Museum, I’ve got to see some amazing parts of our transport infrastructure that are usually hidden from the public, either long-closed or not yet opened. But my ideal day off would be to explore all the tunnels I’ll probably never get to see, like the secret government tunnels around Whitehall and quite possibly well beyond. There are rumours of them extending all over central London, maybe out to the suburbs, and I’d love to see how much of that is true.

London in Quotations: H. V. Morton

To us London is a hundred different places. It is never easy to know exactly what we mean when we use the word. Indeed, to the question ” What is London? ” there is no satisfactory answer, unless it be that it is the original little walled city that still exists. It contains St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Mansion House, the Guildhall, the Bank of England and London Bridge. Thousands of people work there in the day-time, but no one sleeps there at night but the Lord Mayor of London and a few hundred caretakers. Yet the physical boundaries of this ancient city are still visible. It is still possible to walk along the line of the Roman Wall that centuries ago limited the size of London to one square mile.

H. V. Morton (1892-1979), In Search of London

London Trivia: The Lady of Justice

On 27 February 1907 the Old Bailey, at a cost of £392,277 was finally opened by King Edward VII. On top of the 67ft high dome a 12ft gold leaf statue was placed of a ‘lady of justice’ holding a sword in one hand and the scales of justice in the other; she is not, as is conventional with such figures, blindfolded. Over the main entrance to the building figures were placed representing fortitude, the recording angel, and truth.

On 27 February 1557 the first Russian Embassy opened in London, within a year a trade mission brought sable skins opening up trade routes between England and Russia

The Neckinger River and the street get their name from ‘devil’s neckinger’ London slang for a handkerchief or the hangman’s noose

Marble Arch was built as the entrance to Buckingham Palace until it was realised that the arch was too narrow for Queen Victoria’s carriage

At Holy Sepulchre Church lies buried Captain John Smith who was rescued by Pocahontas when he was Governor Virginia, Pocahontas is buried at Gravesend

On 27 February 1975 PC Stephen Tibble, a policeman for only 6 months, was shot in Baron’s Court, hours later London’s first bomb factory was found

The gargoyles on the façade of The Natural History Museum depict the extent of palaeontological knowledge at the time of its construct

Chelsea buns originate from the Bun House which stood on the junction Lower Sloane Street/Pimlico Road and patronised by royalty until 1839

Millwall (Rovers) were formed in the summer of 1885 by workers at Morton’s Jam Factory on the Isle of Dogs

The Austin FX-4 taxi was introduced in 1958 and remained in production until 1996, only the Mini surpasses this record for a British vehicle

The term ‘Black Friday’ was first used in 1866 when the private banking house of Overend, Gurney and Co collapsed causing panic in the City

No throughfare is called a road in the City. Road is a corruption of the word ride and the streets of the City were too narrow for carriages

CabbieBlog-cab.gifTrivial Matter: London in 140 characters is taken from the daily Twitter feed @cabbieblog.
A guide to the symbols used here and source material can be found on the Trivial Matter page.

Previously Posted: My Enlarged Hippocampus

For those new to CabbieBlog or readers who are slightly forgetful, on Saturdays I’m republishing posts, many going back over a decade. Some will still be very relevant while others have become dated over time. Just think of this post as your weekend paper supplement.

My Enlarged Hippocampus (21.03.09)

London Black Cab drivers are renowned for being ultra-brainy: we are expected to memorise the routes of up to 25,000 different roads in the capital, along with places of interest, important buildings, miscellanea, and we are not given a licence until we have demonstrated we have “The Knowledge”. And boy, can we talk politics and solve the world’s wrongs! With 70 per cent of trainees dropping out along the way and some Knowledge “boys” taking up to five years to qualify. Although your blog author only took 4 years 10 months and 13 days, I wasn’t counting!

Scientists have now discovered that cab drivers have a strong internal sense of direction that in many people is absent. The scientists found the brain area known as the hippocampus was larger than average in cabbies. This area of the brain starts firing neurons like mad as their cab driver owners ruminate on what route to take from A to B.

Researchers at the Wellcome Trust put dozens of cabbies in a brain scanner, asked them to play a computer game recreating London streets and then analysed their brain activity.

“The hippocampus is crucial for navigation and we use it like a ‘satnav’,” Dr Hugo Spiers of the Institute of Behavioural Neuroscience at University College London told the BA Festival of Science in Liverpool. “London taxi drivers have powerful innate satnavs, strengthened by years of experience.”

He identified three types of cells behind the satnav effect: place cells map our location, direction cells tell us which way we are facing and grid cells how far we have travelled.

In addition, it is said that if you can drive in London, you can drive anywhere. One notable London cabbie was Fred Housego an ordinary working-class London Taxi Driver who won the BBC TV programme Mastermind, normally populated by posh lecturers and civil servants, with his amazing memory for random general knowledge, and his ability to memorise his chosen subject for study.

A recent study also found that an enlarged hippocampus might be the reason why people with dementia might not show signs of the condition. “A larger hippocampus may protect these people from the effects of Alzheimer’s disease-related brain changes,” announced Deniz Erten-Lyons, MD, with Oregon Health and Science University in Portland, at the American Academy of Neurology 60th Annual Meeting in Chicago.

So you see CabbieBlog has an amazing brain compared to the rest of humanity, or has Alzheimer’s and is unaware of it . . . now where DID I put my glasses!

 

Statistics 2021

This last year will go down in the history of CabbieBlog. It started with a fairly healthy number of hits, with the previous month (December 2020) having the highest number ever, with everyone at home the hit rate was bound to rise. Unfortunately with everyone returning to the home office numbers have been on a downward slide this year, although it is reassuring that CabbieBlog has attracted a core of regular readers and commentators. Thank You All.

Never content with CabbieBlog’s appearance again minor changes have been made: social icons, a Ko-Fi donation button and weekly London Quote. London Grill has made a reappearance and at the start of every month a quiz titled Test Your Knowledge, thank you all for contributing and taking part.

On a less upbeat side, I’ve been trying to cope with WordPress’s Block Editor and found it impossible – see last Tuesday’s post.

So with more information than is reasonably necessary, here are the annual blogging statistics for 2021. As before, with the data amassed over the last year, I’ve broken it down into bite-sized chunks with comparable figures for the previous year.


Blog visitors and page views

Difficult to gauge, for instance, CabbieBlog has 173 followers on Bloglovin’ so none of their views will be recorded, but according to my basic counter the numbers of visitors has increased, but those willing to loiter around have also increased.  CabbieBlog has attracted a number of regular readers, which, I suspect have found their way from BeetleyPete, which is very encouraging. (Average hit rate per visitor: 2020 – 1.6118; 2021 – 1.6216). This year sees an increase of 13 per cent I the number of visitors and page views.

2020
Visitors – 28,403
Pageviews – 45,781

2021
Visitors – 31,986
Pageviews – 51,871


CabbieBlog’s readers from abroad

The different countries whose residents have viewed CabbieBlog again include Jersey (at 19), Guernsey (at 5) and Isle of Man (at 10), as if they were sovereign countries in their own right and curiously the European Union (at 14). The United States leads our curious cousins with 7,133 a rise since last year’s 5,544 hits.

2020 – 137 individual countries

2021 – 140 individual countries


Number of comments

The yardstick of a blog must be how many of its readers decided to metaphysically put pen to paper and comment, and this year, despite, or because of COVID-19, has seen exponential growth of 76 per cent. I’ve said it before,  one of the delights of blogging for me – and one of the things that keep me going – is the interaction with others that it gives us. There is a number who regularly comment on my posts, and whose posts I visit and comment on too. I’ve never met any of them in ‘real-life,’ or even spoken on the phone or by one of the messaging apps, but they feel like friends like we’re in a community together. And sometimes we get a kind of chat going in the comments too, which I always enjoy. To all of you, again a huge thank you for your encouragement or discouragement. Your comments keep me submitting regular posts for your perusal. I’m delighted, obviously.

2020 – 169

2021 – 296


Number of ‘Likes’

When you have a super, intelligent and engaging blog that is blessed with visitors that clearly repeatedly like to Like, you are in a favourable position. On 15th November 2021 the Burghers of WordPress informed me that CabbieBlog has received a total of 1,000 Likes during its lifetime. So you see the Likes are on a huge upward trend, again a huge thank you for touching the ­­­Like button at the foot of every post.

2020 – 359

2021 – 739


Followers of CabbieBlog

My e-mail updates only include a brief description so many of you will have had to peruse the site to read the full post. I can’t calculate how many times you have taken the trouble to follow these notifications and read my inciteful posts, but thanks for following CabbieBlog.

2020 – 1,315

2021 – 1,368


Posts written

Most of this year’s output has been new material, although Monday’s Quotations were not obviously written by me and therefore are not included in the count. This year’s increase is mainly from the addition of Wednesday’s Johnson’s London.

2020– 209

2021 – 231


Most viewed and least viewed posts and pages

It has to be said that some subjects take on a life of their own, while others just sit in cyberspace minding their own business. At the bottom lie many posts with only a few views a year, and some I suspect just sit there patiently waiting to be noticed.

2020
Highest post
London myths debunked – 2,282
Lowest Post
Site Unseen: Gwynne House– 15
Highest page
13 Survivors – 1,491
Lowest page
Privacy Policy – 15

2021
Highest post
London’s top-secret tower – 1,303
Lowest Post
Extreme London – 17
Highest page
The Knowledge – 2,846
Lowest page
The small print – 20


Pages written

This year no new pages have appeared on CabbieBlog.

2020 – 0

2021 – 0


Number of words written

My average output of about 1,500 words written each week has remained virtually the same this year as for last year.

2020
Words – 84,748
Characters – 489,994

2021
Words – 83,468
Characters – 487,420


Referrers

If you ignore the search engines, clocking up an impressive 25,300 hits, social media referrers are Twitter at 413 and, surprisingly, as I haven’t an account, Facebook at 1,739.

2021
Diamond Geezer
The Telephone Box

2022
Wikipedia
Diamond Geezer


In conclusion

This post is, of course, my highlight of the year, it also takes the longest to write, unfortunately, my readers don’t share my enthusiasm. Last year only 42 of you bothered to click on Statistics 2020, with only 4 viewing this incisive post since last March.

Taxi Talk Without Tipping